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~ pl.: French, for morsels – pl.: short literary works

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Tag Archives: Tarte Tatin

Tarte Tatin

23 Tuesday Jul 2013

Posted by Erin in Recipes, Sweets and Treats

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Apple, Apple Pie, Butter, Chez Georges, Granny Smith, Paris, Pastry Crust, Sugar, Tarte Tatin, Turbinado

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I’ve always had a special place in my heart for Tarte Tatin.  But when I dined at Chez Georges, I didn’t know what I was in for.  This traditional French bistro located in the heart of Paris does it right.  While I can’t claim to have replicated their superior dish, I’ve tried my best to come up with a substitute that will tide me over until my next Parisian adventure.

Tarte Tatin

Most recipes call for a mixer to make the crust.  Instead, I use a simple crust mixed by hand.  The trick is to use the coldest ingredients possible (without being fully frozen) and to only use your fingertips when mixing.  Palms are too warm and will cause the dough to stay separated.   

I prefer the taste and consistency of Turbinado sugar and whole wheat pastry flour, but white sugar and all-purpose flour will do. 

Crust

9 tbsp unsalted butter
1 ¼ cup whole wheat pastry flour
1tsp Turbinado sugar
¼ tsp salt
3 tbsp ice water (up to 2 more tbsp if needed)

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Start by cutting the butter into cubes.  Separate and place in freezer for about 20 minutes.

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Mix the flour, sugar, and salt in a bowl.  Remove butter from the freezer and place in the bowl with the flour mixture.  Use your fingertips to pull the butter and flour together until pea-sized pieces have formed.  Add the water in small parts until the dough begins to form together.  As soon as it holds together, mold into a ball and flatten into a round disk.  Do not handle dough too much, otherwise it will begin to fall apart.  Place in the fridge until ready to use.

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Apple filling

8 apples, firmer variety such as Granny Smith
1 cup Turbinado sugar
1 stick butter
1 tbsp almond extract
1 tbsp cinnamon

Be sure to use an ovenproof skillet – either nonstick or cast iron.

Peel and core the apples.  I chose Granny Smith in this case, but when apples are in season, try any firmer variety from your local farmers market.  Cut into pieces, no smaller than 2 inches in diameter.

Melt the butter in the skillet.  Spread sugar over melted butter and stir over low heat as the butter and sugar begin to caramelize.  Allow the butter and sugar to bubble, but do not bring to a full boil.  Continue stirring until the mixture appears smooth and slightly thickened.

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Spread the apples into the skillet.  You’ll want to arrange the apples with as few gaps as possible.  Tarte Tatin is a rustic dish, so embrace the imperfections.  I found that while pressing the apples together layer by layer with a spatula worked well.

Turn the heat up to medium.  Allow the caramelized sugar and butter to boil up through the apples.  This should take 10-15 minutes.  Drizzle almond extract over the apples and sprinkle cinnamon over the apples.  Remove from heat.

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Remove the crust from the fridge and roll out to a thin disk that will fit over the skillet.

Cover the skillet with the dough.  Use a spoon or knife to tuck the edges into the skillet.  Be careful!  The pan is hot.  Poke a few holes in the surface with a fork.

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Place in the oven at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for about 30 minutes or until dough is golden brown.  Remove from oven and place on a cooling rack for about 30 minutes.  Use a knife to free the edges from the rim of the skillet.  Place a heat-safe plate on the top of the skillet and flip the tarte onto the plate.  Serve with ice cream or Chantilly Cream. Enjoy!

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Chez Georges – a Parisian tourist experience

23 Tuesday Jul 2013

Posted by Erin in Reviews

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

1 rue du Mail, Chantilly, Chantilly Cream, Chez Georges, French food, Frisee, Julia Child, Lardons, Musée du Louvre, Paris, Sole Meunière, Tarte Tatin

Two cousins.  One city.  So much food.  My beloved cousin Claire and I recently found ourselves in Paris.  Between my food obsession and her passion for art, we were quite the pair.  Some of the many highlights to the trip included an unexpected gallery tour of the Louvre as a result of Claire’s recent acquisition of Masters in Art History and stumbling into an underground jazz bar filled with Parisians dancing the night away. However, one of my favorite food experiences was dining at the forever famous Chez Georges.  Call it cliché if you must – even typical tourist behavior – but I don’t care.  There’s something just wonderful about cliché French food – croissants, Madeleines, pot de crème, duck à l’orange.  It needs no reinventing.  It just is and forever will be delicious.

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Chez Georges is the old haunt of many a renown chef and was reportedly Julia Child’s favorite restaurant in all of Paris.  With its oak entrance, dim-lit sconces and untouched lace curtains, patrons feel like they are stepping back in time to enjoy la cuisine traditionelle.  The restaurant first opened in 1964 under Georges Bruillet and hasn’t lost an ounce of charm or flavor since.

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Claire and I went all out.  We admittedly spent about 20 minutes reading the handwritten (yes, handwritten) menus and another 10 translating the dishes that appeared interesting to our not-so-refined French language skills.  Cecile – our rough-around-the-edges server who warmed up to us after 2 hours of culinary extravagance – must have checked on us at least 5 times before we were ready to order.  Sadly, most of my pictures from this evening were lost.

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 I began my meal with the Salade frisée aux lardons (frisée with fatty chunks of bacon, shallot vinaigrette, and an egg).  Never in my life have I had an egg so perfectly poached.

For the main course, we both indulged in the Sole Meunière – a fillet of sole just smothered in butter, cream, chives, and other heavenly goodness that melts in your mouth. And you’ll never forget the potatoes that cut like clouds with just the slightest push of a fork.

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Finally, for dessert, I indulged in the Tarte Tatin.  Tarte Tatin is just as traditional as American Apple Pie.  Caramelized sugar that boils up through hunks of apple, topped with flaky butter pastry, and turned out of the pan is hard to beat.  I expected nothing short of amazing from Chez Georges, but it was the full 10-inch wide mixing bowl of Chantilly Cream that they placed in front of me that did my taste buds in.  You haven’t had Chantilly Cream until you’ve had it at Chez Georges.  Somehow, theirs came out looking like a huge batch of crème frâiche but was about twice as dense, solid, heavy and flavored with strong scents of vanilla.  I tried not to smother the generous slice of tarte before me, but it was no use.  I found it.  The perfect French cliché of a dessert that satisfied every whim of an American in Paris.

I hope to find myself back in that beautiful city someday soon.  Until then, I’ll be dreaming of Chantilly Cream and idling away my days creating Tarte Tatin to make it through.

 You’ll learn quickly that there are several Chez Georges in Paris – all entirely different establishments.  We visited Chez Georges at 1 rue du Mail near Bourse.  If you plan to go, make a reservation in advance.

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